Aceh is a beautiful place to explore and a trip to the Gayo highlands of Central Aceh delight with pine-studded mountainside, remote village life and a beautiful little town called lively next to a lake Takengon
lake Tawar. | Photo by David Metcalf
I made my way to Lake Tawar Takengon outside and met a nice man, Pak Syamsudin, who told me of his ancestral home. "I'm the fifth generation and a descendant of Raja Beluntara, the original king of the district. This old house is over 150 years old," he told me in a thoughtful tone. "The government has a deal to move freely for up to me a few years ago. They wanted my historic house and offered me a nice, new, modern house on the street, if I would give this original house, so I said, why not? "
When I was with him, I stared at the high wooden beams, which were carried out with five pegs and five points. "The Dutch were here for a long time," he said. "They built schools and gave us education. Take a look at this painting by Raja Beluntara. The painting was actually found by a photo in a museum in Amsterdam." Pak Syamsudin stood proudly beside the painting with his son and three grandchildren him has for a photo opportunity.
Pak Syamsudin is the guardian of the old house. He receives a central government every three months for maintenance. He told me: "No one from the government ever comes to visit the house is empty, but I'm having good that." His look was one of reflection, as he stared at the vertical plates. a design feature of the home of the king. "But I miss living here," he added.
He told me of the good relationship his village with the Dutch had. He went on to explain that in the early 19 th century made the Netherlands an agreement to honor the kingdom. Part of the deal was to provide education for the local people who. Even to this day, they have maintained Many Gayo people are poets and love to compete verbally challenges that take place regularly in the form of competitions in the villages and neighboring towns.
I was lucky, one of these word-bringing poetry competitions a late witness night. It was a poetry reading and a part of a celebration of the local boys circumcision ceremony. I was the boy told family were rich, so as part of the ceremony an Didong should be; a poetry contest.
A word game challenge, which continues through the night, a Didong includes two rival villages and only ends when the sun rises. They tell jokes and calling each other spiritually, and this is enhanced when questions are answered correctly by loud applause and cheers even louder when the response includes a clever answer.
I arrived at 10am and left at midnight. I was told that would go Didong without pause to 02:00. From 02:00 to 06:00, the verbal challenge would move to a new level and with teasing and ridicule combined include dancing. Every now and then would have a village elder to the rescue to come up with an answer, if the participant was not sure. This rescue technology, engage both the public and the participants in a deeper understanding of their history and culture. The elders who are the judges declare the winner based on two factors :. Knowledge and wisdom
The dance of a thousand hands
I was fortunate to be one night in a small alley in back Blangkejren village invited to Saman dance rehearsal. had I met Ali Muddin, a Saman dance teacher whose dance troupe, the world and visited festivals in Kuala Lumpur, Melbourne, Berlin, Sydney and Thailand tours.
I was sitting on a beautiful handwoven directed green and white Gayo mat, as a line of thirteen keen teenage boy mixed two rooms in the small house. The Saman dancers sat in a long row, excited to practice their ancient dance in front of a foreign guest. It was just a regular Monday night practice, but the room was packed family members. The boys practice three times a week and have to synchronize their movements in a very fast pace, not missing a beat.
The dance was absolutely fascinating from beginning to end. It is the body and slapping her head from side shuffle to side as won the dance momentum. Matching the tempo of music moved the dancers her body in quick succession, the coordination of the hands, arms, neck and upper body in time to the music while singing. The dance reached a dramatic end where everyone burst into applause.
The origins of this dance come from the ethnic group Gayo. It is carried out in this part of Aceh. Ali told me that if a father his son, the dance has taught, he can no longer perform. "They want to learn all the dance," Ali said, "because of the Saman dance is one of the most popular dances in Indonesia. Many of the boys are lured by the opportunity to Jakarta and other places to go, and maybe as I go overseas." Ali continued: "Every year, a large dance competition in Jakarta will be held We hold to win the competition, and now they have banned us from the competition Can you believe it.."
Traditional dance -Performance? | Photo by David Metcalf
Many large receptions in the Gayo region are held. You can check with the tourism department and your visit with a collapse of this time. Occasionally up to 5,000 dancers the Saman dance routine.
I went with the desire for Aceh to travel from Banda Aceh in the north of Gunung Leuser National Park in the south. I have a week to cross the country, much of it in the coffee plantations veiled, wide river systems, breathtaking landscapes and touching encounters with the local culture.
From an old king's house sitting the Saman dance tradition to discover in the small village Blangkejren Aceh was an expedition, every day reveals a new miracle. Breaks lesser known places in Indonesia with only a rough plan and an open mind is always a trace of surprise and joy bring
Fast Facts :. Aceh Gayo
Province: Aceh
Area: 58,376 km²
population: 4.732 million (2014)
Directions: Banda Aceh to Takengon, the central highlands of Aceh, is 314 km. It is a slow and bumpy
drive. The roads are in average to poor condition and it takes 6.5 hours
guide and driver .: Miss Ferzya www.getaceh.com
accommodation: Linda's Homestay - lindahomestay@yahoo.com
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