The growling stopped battered "Executive" bus in front of our hotel in Labuan Bajo, its engine hungrily shows on the way out of town. well swept by this thriving, chaotic east coast port of Flores, we first a steep wooded road woven by an undeveloped landscape of corrugated roof, bamboo huts in the middle of dirt yards with coffee, cocoa and cloves drying on mats Shook Up.
on the other side of the mountain, we descend to a newly built highway with stolid bridges, immense rocky river gorges under steep cliffs, then wide crisscrossed by rice fields. The bus was full, limbs and boys hanging out the window, Javanese pop blaring at ear-shattering volume, as we headed for the Bajawa Highlands, capital of Ngada Regency.
House to Ngada people in the early Dutch literature known as Rokka, this mixed Malay / permanent Melanesian race this high fertile plateau at 2245 meter mountain Inerie in the 17th century.
With great natural beauty on all sides, is Flores Switzerland, Southeast Asia, the most traditional of Indonesia islands about so much more of a distinct Melanesian flavor than its neighboring island of Sumbawa, that it is a foreign country could represent.
pour After a grueling all-day drive from winding mountain roads with icy air under sarongs in the dark blur in the chassis through every crevice, we were dropped in the rain at 10am on Jl. A. Yani, Bajawa the main road. The closest hotel, Korina was the cheapest in town. The three sweet teenage girl, the rooms were small, the pillows brick hard, rats scurrying in the walls, but the hotel was clean, offered free Wi-Fi and breakfast.
Motorcycle Tours
Although an attraction in itself - clean, relaxing and refreshingly cool with a wide range of accommodation and rumah makan - high altitude Bajawa is exploring primarily as a used base for the surrounding hills, where native animistic beliefs still flourish, the volcanic landscape is spectacular and where famous sofi alcoholic beverage is, earthy full-bodied coffee is grown. Nobody hassles to buy something.
There was no problem to find a leader. They found her. Once we the next morning a press friendly from the Korina but stubbornly tugs, motorcycle ojek originated driver-cum-guide, greeted us their services offer. After some back and forth bickering, we introduced two leaders of one tells us kesao was instead of taking house warming ceremony the next morning in the mountain village Tolelo. We struck a deal for Rp.150,000 for one adult and two children on two motorcycles.
Dion and Hillalio the next morning were at 10 am at the Korina. I asked them to draw a rough map and list in their own hands, which were included in the price stops - Tolelo and also the village Bena and bath in a hot springs on the way. The journey took us on a winding road out of town, is by towering bamboo, and at the end of a climb, a steep and muddy path next to a stream upward as it twisted its way up a mountain by a tropical deciduous forest.
Just before the village, we came to a shrine of the Virgin Mary then our relationship at the house of the paid kepala desa (headman) against splashing and photos. We signed the guest book and made a small donation. Rows of tall thatched bamboo Ngadanese traditional dwellings and ritual houses with doors decorated with jaw bone and buffalo horns standing in a stone-edged central square.
dancers formed to upright pole-like ngadhu [1945013und] bhaga ancestors totem stones that were between the structures placed in. Separate groups of women and children began with the poor connected dancing in a circle, turning counterclockwise. In this graceful "dance", she held a long scarf and danced with shuffling steps, fluttering hands and circling the body while advancing orbiting recession and other dancers.
Then it was the turn of the men, some with rawhide shields and helmets painted with horsehair tufting, protect the face like a raised welding shield. Assuming a warlike attitude, to the accompaniment of whistle, gong and drum beats, each circling like cats. I sat for a while next to the deep-thumping Florinese Orchestra, the best vantage point from which to see the hypnotic, unrehearsed performance in which participated the whole village.
Meanwhile, it was the middle of the afternoon. Wanting to get into the city before dark, we left and started on the way back down. Only 30 minutes from the Tolelo the parking lot, we made a stop at a river, where all our efforts have been an excellent bathroom in hot water that gushed from an underwater source.
ended our tour in Bena, the most visited of all the old traditional villages in the area, 19 km southeast of Bajawa at the foot of Monte Somma Inerie. This three-story village, with totemic figures and grave as megalithic structures in the village square, carries out its own brand of animism and cultural and artistic traditions just outside obscure missionary magazines known. After photos of several women weaving Ikat on their porches, a boy took me to a hill for an amazing view of the sea through a cascade of green hills
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Fast Facts
Land size Ngada Regency total 1,621km square
population (2010): Bajawa 36 082
Highest point: 1,100 meters
Directions bus fare from Labuan Bajo Rp.100,000-Rp.150,000. AC buses cost Rp.250,000, 8-12 hours (depending on the season). Every hotel in the city organized tours and bus tickets to
Stay .: edelweisses is upmarket in Rp.0,000-Rp.300,000. Budget Korina Hotel is Rp.150,000. Villa Silverin is simple but nice. Bintang Wistata OK for a night or two. Marselino the host family is ideal for backpackers. Hotel Happy Happy is a small, well-run hotel with great breakfast.
Whichever hotel you stay in, ask for a bucket of hot water, towels and extra thick blankets because it is cold at night!
What to do Beno, Langa, Bela, Luba, and Wogo Tolelo villages of Adat traditional houses and megalithic sculptures. Wawo Muda for volcanic lakes.
guide services (min. 4 persons) costs of Rp.75,000-150,000 per day, including transport and driver. Tours can be tailored your priorities and time constraints fit. Guides are excellent sources of information on harvest festivals, ritual sacrifice, consecration ceremonies, weddings and other family celebrations.
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