Photos courtesy of Bruce Carpenter
As endangered species, magical encounters with pure and unadulterated Indonesian traditional culture have become increasingly rare events in the 21st century. While the projections for long-term survival are dark, wondrous surprises can come when least expected.
arrived under cover of dusk to establish the reality of a troubled new national frontier at dawn between Indonesian Timor and Timor Leste came when the harbor master sends a serious warning our ship 0 meters west to move, as we in " foreign "waters were anchored.
My fears of a sad tour of Belu, the core areas of the Tajik people, one of the most incredible traditional crops have been increased only by the cold reception of the local Indonesian authorities that our papers with suspicion apparently unsure how the first luxury to respond tour boat viewed tourists in Atapupu, a drab port of high fences and barbed wire surrounded residues to land a troubled parting of the ways.
When we in the hills above Atambua, a traditional village and seat of the local government out guide, proud hill, stunned me thatched roofs and colorful costumes. Encouraged, I began to entertain the thought that the strict prohibition inadvertently outsider had created a time loop of the kind that had preserved the culture.
My hopes only grew when we on a rocky summit of the walled village in liquidation of Tuaninu. Stopping in front of a stone gate, we were greeted by a delegation proud elders in wound Ikat towels and wearing old swords with handles in the form of parrots. Tattooed, brown and wrinkled exposed betel stained teeth, as the old greeting chanted entry before possible.
without warning let Suddenly two rows of about 30 girls between 8 and 14 a battle cry as they formed their hourglass beat furiously tifa drums and marched towards us. Your young age and enthusiasm combined with strong rhythms were as overwhelming as their colorful costumes, headgear with silver soaked contain coins from as far as the 17 th century.
Photos courtesy of Bruce Carpenter
For the next three hours we were by more dances excited the old and complex history of the people of Belu Reflection, bridging both sides of them invisible border. Direct descendants of the ancient Austronesian, centuries would lead the contact with the outside world that their coveted sandalwood and 'yellow gold' many influences and the influx of silver dollars. Despite this they would keep their core beliefs in ancestor who still believed to visit the holy house in the village during ceremonies. their world to the older ladies Post After many with tattooed hands gave us the traditional "Kiss" by their noses to rub against us. Tears were shed as we headed back to the coast.
Famous for its textiles and fine carvings of the continuing survival of Belu options is still uncertain, as the region developed rapidly and evaporate the old ways. A good example of this occurred on Sermata in 09, an extremely isolated island in Southeast Maluku. Two years ago our passengers, photos of the locals. Unexpectedly and despite the fact there was no cell phone coverage on the island of the foreigners were from the locals besieged eager to take pictures of the visitors on their mobile phones. We can not prevent the inevitable, but so to get to memory and the local population with pride in traditional culture instilling the descent of all Third World people can prevent in an empty generic type dressed in dirty, tattered shorts and T-shirts. Material progress is of great importance, but without culture, art and identity, it leaves only a well-nourished skin of human existence. More is needed to nourish the human soul and body.
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