buses will take you almost anywhere in Bali. "When you leave for Amlapura?" I asked the bus driver to a recent Friday at Denpasar Batubulan Terminal. "Five minutes," he said. Its engine is running, not the other buses, as I went up the street, so I jumped on board the old rattletrap, sits between a 28-year-old musician from Frankfurt, an unemployed Balinese driver and an old turbaned Balinese old woman a bear bamboo tray melons. A few other passengers were heat the back of the bus in the steamy morning.
The entrance partially hidden by trees, the Topi Inn just down the road a landmark traveler is. Built entirely of bamboo and coconut wood, the district is named after its peculiar top hat-shaped traditional grass roof - a large sprawling structure with an open-air restaurant on the ground floor, a 12-bed dormitory and private rooms on the second floor, teetering with the district on the owner. The whole building creaks and sways like a living being.
Since its unofficial opening over 28 years ago, the hotel has grown into one of the most popular rest stops in all East Bali. The carefully crafted menu of the restaurant, the clientele of both Padangbai and far pulls out of town, it turns out, peerless hamburgers, a fish net, a classic Nasi campur, a popular beef rendang, a wide selection of fresh juices and the best Cimbali brewed cappuccino in town. The creaking stairs in the back led to the second floor over the beach beyond.
A small port of diurnal variation
I threw my bag on top of the mattress and took a walk Padangbai of a lovely scruffy main street with the confetti-like facades of souvenir stalls lined. The harbor was scrappier, loud and crowded than I remembered it back in the 1980s when it was a meeting place for backpackers mainly. Although no longer a sleepy little port, Padangbai has the feel of a small seaport and fishing center and not by a large impersonal port as Gilimanuk on the western tip of the island. With three beaches, inexpensive restaurants and hotels in every price category (with the exception of five-star), the small port town is an under-appreciated destination with its own trouble-free atmosphere - a unique place to spend time before and after the trip or diving trips , are at any time, perhaps as many as 400 people overnighting here either half arrive for leaving or from the neighboring island of Lombok.
It was after Friday prayers and Muslim Indonesians that women and girls fully clothed in Islamic clothing, were picnicking on the sand. Radiant family cars - arc status symbols of the growing Indonesian middle class - and a long unbroken line of motorcycles were all parked on the sidewalk. Seeking shelter from the heat, I sat down with the fishermen, drivers, tractors, sunglasses, lottery, ticket, drink and fruit seller in the airy bales from the parking lot. Some things have remained unchanged for 30 years. Anything is worth seeing even within walking distance. Tangles of brightly painted subjects Fish bowed jukung were drawn still up on the beach and fishing and dive boats still bobbed in a perfect pearl-shaped bay.
A great dive destination, dive companies from all over Bali bring their customers this sheltered bay that provides a safe haven for dive boats. Since diving throughout the year is over with no off-season, the business has become a boon for Padangbai and its inhabitants. The surrounding waters of Amuk Bay, with Padangbai to the south and Candidasa in the north, offer excellent diving locations just minutes away, especially for rare species such as the giant Mola-Mola sunfish, a sea miracle, with a circumference of 2.5 meters.
on my last day I left fork at the end of the city, rising from 10 minutes to the winding road, then down in a parking lot and stairs to the Blue Lagoon, a small protected bay, framed by gray sand. The uncrowded beach with scattered rock formations, public locker rooms, and massage lounge chairs is an easy dive site with excellent marine life, soft corals and a huge Staghorn corals. People were right on the beach snorkeling, where the white sandy bottom slopes gently to 22 meters. While the locale is used for teaching open water courses, experienced divers and photographers also enjoy thoroughly the page. Currents can be difficult, but on many days the bay can be as quiet as a millpond.
Padangbai makes a strategic base to see the entire area and also serves as an important gateway to the eastern islands, the story of the kingdom Wallacea. In high season, approximately 1,000 people in the port come from the tourist centers of southern Bali every day, either embarking on one of the 18 ferries that 32 intersections around the clock Lembar Harbour on Lombok or aboard one of the speed boats for the idyllic Gili Islands off the west coast of Lombok.
All cut through the night, the powerful lights of approaching and departing ferries through the darkness, its engines churning, during arrival and departure announcements from the brightly lit jetty by the deep haunting sounds followed blaring horns of vessel. Some guests never make it to the eastern islands, or even out of town, rather incredulously cheap Marline to eat barracuda, snapper, kumi kumi and fried shrimp dinner or sleep, dive, read and relax on the beach while in peace to figuring out what to do next.
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