The Bada, Napu and Doda valleys of giant Lore Lindu National Park is Central Sulawesi perhaps best known for the ancient monolithic human figures ( Arca ) similar to the Mo'ai of Easter island. to see A visit to the valleys, this changed my perspective on Indonesian history.
Bada Valley is about a two hour drive from Tentena, a small town on the shores of Lake Poso, Indonesia third deepest lake. The air turned noticeably cooler than the common car, entered the highlands to break only halfway. The rugged winding road made me nervous enough to reach for safety. Not long after we got help and the engine of the car started, we saw another car head in the deep ditch next to the road -. The driver said that it was in the night before while trying to navigate the darkness
I was surprised that my smartphone entered full mobile coverage than we had Bada. "We did it just last year," said a local.
I Losmen Immanuel remained in Gintu village, the administrative capital of Bada Valley. I went with an American backpack I met in Tentena, JK, in the neighboring village Bewa. " Hello, sir, " the village children would greet us. decorated by the village roundabout by a monolithic figure, we set ojek to take us to the next Arca.
The hilltop ojeks took us to flaunt a 180 ° view of Bada Valley with green meadows and lush gardens framed by blue mountains. "Tell the ojek this one of the most beautiful views I have seen was in Southeast Asia," JK said. A smiling monolith with clenched fists looking out for viewing.
We then rode towards Bomba a small monolithic woman under abandoned traditional houses to see. No one knows much about the history behind these homes and his guardian stone. As the sun, JK told me to get his travel stories in an old Mexican monument with indigenous community leaders highly. We walked through rice fields and discovered each stained glass church village, still decorate with Christmas decorations. "I am amazed that in a place like the Far East as this Bada Valley, people still such a westernized image of Jesus," JK said.
The next morning, we followed local guides Sjuman to To-Manuru, a fenced, beheaded figure and another concealed Arca, which harmonizes with the fence. The monolith in the center used to be the guardian of a banyan tree, but now an ketapang tree is in place. To-Manuru was assumed that the ancestral god incarnate to be from heaven. The arcas sit directly from a village crossroads and a nearby church was preparing the evening's New Year's Eve service. had a stone on the ground an eye on them.
"Like most Bada arcas This site between 2,000-2,500 years old" said Sjuman. "This is reminiscent of the old village of Tinoi which has now blended into the surrounding woods."
"Sounds holy. How do we get easy climb that fence and there is a lot of trash around?" I asked.
"It is a sacred and historic place, but at the same time that it here in the village where we carry on our day-to-day business," said Sjuman. "This used to be the reasons for the war of Bada and Kulawi to be strains. We fought wars only to show neighboring tribes who the boss was around here until the Dutch came and shared the gospel of Jesus Christ among us."
"who are your best remembered war heroes? Did any of them, the Dutch fight for Indonesia's independence?" I asked.
"No one fought against the Dutch. They did not come with soldiers but missionaries, so they taught us how to love our neighbors and brought peace to Lindu" he replied.
We have lunch some big rice fields on foot. Evasive hidden potholes on the little paths, I wondered what this place was so special. Sjuman then pointed to a large rock in the middle of padi field. But it was not just a rock - it had carved a prominent staring face it. The locals call it Watu Baula, 20-year-old Buffalo Rock.
"When I was a teenager in the 1970s, I have my father sell fruits in Tentena to help. There were no cars, so we went and had to wear a horse our load. A return trip took three days. My mother would prepare food cooked in hollow bamboo for us wear, and at night we slept on the roadside, "Sjuman his youth remembered how we rested in a pavilion nearby.
After lunch, we made it to see the iconic 4.5-meter Watu Palindo to Padang Sepe. Slanted like the Tower of Pisa, locals believe, before grazing livestock centuries enjoyed pushes against it. A group of teenage boys were climbing the gigantic Arca and take pictures when we arrived.
"The monolith is damaged so after the thousandth climbers. Why is not there anyone here responsible it away from him to keep? Why is your government not do something about it? "she asked JK, obviously irritated.
Sjuman said something about the government does not have the money or the right personnel. I pondered JK question in silence. I used to think I wanted to promote tourism in Indonesia, so that the government can raise funds and the right workforce to make beautiful museums, tourist facilities and souvenir shops, strengthen the locals with economic opportunities. But in Bada Valley to be made me something important to realize - people here below 2,500 years of history live, right in their midst. You do not have to dress up and buy tickets to a fancy museum and money on expensive coffee or souvenirs, to have this experience - it's right there in their backyards. And I start when "real tourism" that would be removed by the people of Bada asking.
That night, without anyone stranger within the city to visit, JK and I had the honor of visiting Sjuman in his family's home for dinner. There we saw the modest villages of Bada Valley lit with fireworks at midnight, as we welcome the New Year.
FIGURES
Country: Indonesia
Province : Sulawesi Tengah (Central Sulawesi)
land area: Lore Lindu National Park - 2179,912 km 2
Largest city : Poso
population: 209252 - 2010 estimate of Poso Regency
Directions: Wings Air flies from Makassar to Poso. driving 4 hours from Poso Tentena, 2 hours drive from Tentena to Bada Valley
What to bring: hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, camera, rain coat, trekking shoes, a warm sweater for the evening
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