Surabaya: Beyond Expectations

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Surabaya: Beyond Expectations - De Javasche Bank

Look in a guide book and the description of Surabaya is exactly you do not seduce. For many years Lonely Planet , the city described as an open sewer and industrial dirt. These days the city has thrown his professional behavior and significantly more are glittering. There is still a city that defines its purpose as trade and industry, but with a growing middle class, much has developed since it was just a big country town. Even second to Jakarta, but with its own culture, it can be used alone.

For the visitor with interest about the glitzy Mall, Night joints and trendy Start are restaurants rewards are. Surabaya dates its establishment at the beginning of the 13 th century, and we see it clearly on early Portuguese maps. It came to prominence in the 18 th century the spice trade. Stretched out in the east are the Moluccas, which were fought for their yield of nutmeg, mace and cloves from the Portuguese, British and Dutch, so dear to Europeans as flavoring and preservatives. By the mid-19th th century the Dutch government, the colony had opened to investment from home and the immigration from these Search options in their plantations, towns and villages. Surabaya for much of that time was a far richer city than the administrative town of Batavia, modern Jakarta, because of its commercial activity and the amount of investment. Old Surabaya today comes from this growth spurt, the law lasted until the Japanese occupation of 1942.

Wharf where Phinisi teak wood schooner moored

each exploring the city should begin at the quay, where the Phinisi teak Holz schooner moored. Manufactured by the Bugis people of South Sulawesi, these fine boats in these waters have sailing for centuries. If you from the outer islands north and east of Surabaya with products - available to drink not coconut shells for oil, bananas, forests and return with brands there -plastic goods, furniture, drums of cooking oil, gallons supplies water and construction, this is not only a tourist attraction, although it too, but a thriving scene that would have been the same as a century ago or more.

We go from the port through the narrow busy streets that once were part of the central business district, but are now the dark side of the local economy of small entrepreneurs, merchants and traders. Much of the architecture is 19 th century and bathes in a picturesque light faded, to keep up with a few old façades in good condition. Some beautiful buildings stand, including the De Javasche Bank, the father of modern Bank of Indonesia, where European and Oriental ornaments that the "Indies" style of architecture known as. The House of Sampoerna is not far from here, the first of clove cigarette factories Sampoerna and now an excellent museum to the entrepreneurial spirit of the Chinese immigrant family of Liem seeng T, which started as a stall keepers and got to be Indonesia's richest families. Surabaya owes the Chinese who dominate the economy here. So many came as economic refugees and made their home Surabaya, now known as the prosperity of Surabaya contribute.

Stroll further south we come to Jembatan Merah, the Red Bridge, where in October 1942 British Brigadier Mallaby that had been entrusted with the adoption of the Japanese surrender and the return to Dutch rule, was euphoric nationalist youths murdered and found that they never would be again under the yoke of foreign troops to unleash a series of events that were in the pan over the Japanese surrender led this region struggle for independence, the in the independence in 1949 is finally the center of the old city ​​that flourished won on the income from plantation crops - tobacco, coffee, cocoa, rubber, sugar and salt - that led to the local economy and benefited in the Netherlands Back home. Beautiful building line Jalan Jembatan Merah. The original seat of the Goodyear Rubber Company, supervision insurance companies, banks, and import / export agencies. The best example of the Indies style can be seen in large PTPNXI buildings, once the headquarters of the Indonesian Handelsvereeniging Amsterdam company and designed by Hulswit, Fermont & Cuypers, a Jakarta-architectural firm responsible for so many of the fine buildings of the city.

we are on the edge of Chinatown here and there we go eldest towards Surabaya's Chinese temple ( klenteng) , we pass many examples of Chinese houses with their characteristic roofs with their pointed eaves. A Rumah Abu , a shrine house, owned by a prominent Surabaya Chinese families sit rather forlornly what once Chinese Street. Hok An Kiong was built in the 1850s by a Chinese sailors from China, which is dedicated to the sea goddess, had Muzo. Built by a craftsman from China there are in one of the four shrine rooms and a graceful statue of the goddess Thian Siang Sing-Boo is.

Perhaps one million people in the old Surabaya live and Pasar Pabean, the existing city's oldest food market and the central food source, is one of the most dazzling stops on our exploration. Madurese provider of shallots, garlic, chili, lemon grass and spices make this a fantastic photographic opportunities. At the other end, a fish market presents more than 30 kinds, the many fish restaurants in the end is in the menus of Surabaya. After hectic squeeze it is a relief to bring in daylight and walk our way to the Arab quarter. Arab traders especially from Yemen settled here over the centuries, and who knows why they have rather chosen on their boats than return to stay, but they have a community formed, that is robust in its orthodox interpretation of Islam. Here Sunan traffic lights, one of nine Muslim preacher credited with the spread and establishment of Islam in Java after a millennium of Hindu Buddhism is taught and buried. This is a place of pilgrimage for many who hope in their lives that the resting places of the revered nine.

Pasar Pabean Surabaya's oldest existing food market

to visit the covered souk in the Arab quarter will anyone remember that in North Africa or the Middle East traditional of the markets has visited there. Foods traditionally associated with Arabian cuisine - dates, pistachios, raisins, chickpeas, halawa, sambosas - sold here. This is a warm and friendly environment for western visitors. Often a hand is extended and a welcome

A ten minute drive takes us to the administrative center of the city. - The strikingly modern building for its time, the East Java Governor Office, and opposite, the heroes Museum, razed to the ground area of ​​the Palace of Justice sitting, which was looted and destroyed on the news of the Japanese surrender. If like the headquarters of the dreaded Japanese secret police, the Kempetai , it was the scene of one of the many battles Surabaya, which is now home began in 1945 a museum for the struggle for independence and the Tugu Pahlawan, a blow Obelisk on are, and a worthy conclusion of our excursions in Surabaya colorful past

.: East Java

Driving Province: flights to Surabaya on all Indonesian airlines are available and there are regular flights from Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Hong Kong. The trains connect the major cities

night .: Hotel Majapahit, Jl. Tunjungan. http://www.hotel-majapahit.com/ The iconic hotel full of history and charm.

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