East Java resident Graeme Steel, takes us for antiques in Indonesia's second largest shopping city, revealing where to look for its hidden jewels.
Indonesia has long been a source of antiques and reproductions. As it becomes more difficult by the production really quite remarkable copies typical Dutch style furniture, craftsmen fill the gap to find. Prices in Surabaya are cheaper than in the capital generally.
with a number of stores across the city, you will find genuine antiques here and disguised some reproductions as the real thing. But shops close to the center of Surabaya CBD, and where expats live, are expensive.
For the adventurous bargain hunters, you will discover a secret source of antiques and reproductions in Kampung Madura, a densely populated area wedged from the main roads. This friendly, relaxed urban village may be to buy a fun and rewarding place.
The streets are narrow but spotless. Here are several 'shops' sprawl their wares on the pavement. There is only enough space to park a car.
A business has taken enormous wood carving from the traditional houses of Kudus on Java's north coast. These panels are elaborate carved and show both Oriental and European influences. The owner of the store says its foreign customers buy them as a room divider or include them even in the inputs of new homes. Further up the road, a business shows minor Goods - planters chairs and marble tables. Scattered across the furniture are many colonial ornaments, beautiful Chinese vases, striking Wayang masks and antique bakelite telephones. I was assured by multiple vendors that purchases can be sent anywhere in the world.
Struggling to get through the maze of furniture, I'm on a business on the opposite side of band or track . a shop of the smallest size, I see a series of tables and desks renovated. A beautiful roll-top mahogany desk, with a point or two of the old writing ink on its surface its authenticity suggesting is rubbed again to remove a coat of cheap paint, which was added by some newer owners in an error of judgment. The beautiful grain is to see again the light of day. Having a fine wooden sofa smoothed with a carved back with a primitive instrument of his slightly battered edges that is no more than a piece of glass, but in the skillful hands of the carpenter's fine return in the form of its lines.
In addition, the track to the mother of this little party. This shop was the first to open here in the early 70s and has the largest space and storage. To call it a Emporium not to overdo it. Like other businesses, there is a stay even, and I come rather embarrassed by the spaces that can apart from the antique to sleep also home to be a member of the extended family of the owner.
From top to bottom, the business under the weight of its contents is groaning. Dozens of Dutch bulbs hanging from the ceiling, mixed with excellent glass lamps of cobalt blue, deep red and green. The floor area is full with round pastry cabinets and Madurese inlaid and carved chests. The owner tells me the real ancient sources quickly run out; a large part of its reproduction furniture is revised old hardwood. This would deceive the aging of much of what I see anything but the trained eye. He claims that still have a supply of real - there are always old family homes coming onto the market from the harsh and family heirlooms sale or from the younger generations who would prefer something more modern
, on the second floor an amazing array of smaller pieces are displayed. I discover a horn gramophone complete with a choice of 78s, a trophy colonial chasing deer, and a collection of Javanese dance masks with their stylized faces among the items. One wall displays 20 or so 19th century plates, most of which are of Maastricht in Holland; some have Indies theme.
Another interesting area is along Jalan Padmo Susatro and Jalan Bodri that takes them in to explore. About 10 roadside shops overflowing onto the sidewalk sale a fabulous array of goods - Dutch era antiques ranging from gramophones, radios, nautical instruments, silverware, brass and crystal. Providers seem interested, without trying to negotiate a deal and you rarely can walk clinch.
Surabaya offers an excellent opportunity to find interesting, unique items at prices that are still affordable.
FACTS: SURABAYA
Province: East Java
population: 2.765 million (2010)
area: 374.8 km²
Directions: There are many flights to Surabaya in Indonesia and other cities of Southeast Asia. Take a taxi from Surabaya airport to these destinations (about 60 minutes):
Kampung Madura, Jl. Gubeng Jaya II, off Jl. Kertajaya
Jl.Padmo sustrato, off Jl. Mayjen Sungkono
Jl. Bodri next Gelora Pancasila
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